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How To Bend PVC Pipe

Sometimes you need to bend PVC pipe to follow the route for your conduit run. You can also save money by bending your own instead of buying factory bends. Although there is a limit to how much of a heat bend that can be made and still maintain the conformity and ID size of the pipe.

All 90 degree bends should be made with factory bent fittings. But you can make your own heat bends for kicks and offsets. These bends can be made with a propane torch but I wouldn't advise this due to the probability of scorching the pipe.

So when you need to bend PVC pipe it is simple to do but there are precautions
that need to be taken. The best thing that I have found to use to heat bend
PVC pipe is a kerosene blower heater like you see on some construction sites. It heats a wide range on your pipe and that is important to keep from kinking the pipe during the bend. Kick bends and offset bends work real well by using heat to soften the pipe and allow it to
bend.

You want to measure first and determine where you need the bend to be made
on the pipe and mark it with a pencil all the way around the pipe. You want to
heat the pipe at least 8 to 12 inches on each side of your mark so you will
actually be heating a section about 2 feet. Hold the PVC conduit about a foot from
the blower heater moving it back and forth and slowly turning the pipe.

You want to heat the entire perimeter of the PVC pipe along the 24 inch section
where your mark was made and continue to slowly turn the pipe while moving it
back and forth. When the pipe starts getting soft take it off of the heat and
make your bend being careful not to kink it. Hold your bend for a few minutes
until the PVC pipe begins to cool. Rubbing some cold water on the pipe will
speed up this process.

I would advise not bending much more than a 45 degree angle using this
method. If you need a 90 degree bend it is probably best to use a factory 90.
You can use a five gallon bucket to bend the pipe if it tries to kink on you. Just
bend the PVC pipe around the bucket until your desired bend is made.

Things To Remember:

  • The wider area that you heat will increase the ease of the bend without kinking it.
  • Spin the PVC pipe slowly during the heating process to insure that the heat is evenly distributed around the entire perimeter of the pipe.
  • Don't hold the PVC pipe to close to the kerosene blower heater or you will scorch it very easily.

How To Build Your Own Concrete Storm Shelter-Part2-The Walls

 

Storm Shelter Walls

Now it's time to start on the second phase of the storm shelter project, the concrete walls. 

 

Things you'll need:

3/4" Plywood

1/2" All Thread Rod

1/2" Nuts And Washers

Few 2X4 Boards

1/2" Rebar

1 In Part 1 we got the slab ready with the 1/2" rebar turned up for the storm

shelter walls. Now we will get the walls ready to pour, assuming the forms have

been torn off from the storm building slab. The tornado shelter walls will be

formed with 3/4" plywood held together with 1/2" all thread rod.

2 Decide on the thickness of the storm shelter walls and that will be the distance

between your two pieces of 3/4" plywood. I would advise an 8" wall and turning

the 4'x 8' plywood on its side forming a 4' high wall by 8' long. This

accomplishes two things. You are only filling the forms with 4'x 8" of concrete

instead of filling it with 8'x 8" thick. Your forms can handle the pressure of the

concrete much better with only 4 feet instead of 8 ft. It will tend to bow your

forms for the storm shelter walls outward if you are not careful.

3 The second reason for pouring a 4' x 8" inch storm shelter wall would be your

option to finish out the upper 4 feet by laying 8" concrete blocks on top of the

concrete wall, or you could pour the other 4' the same way after the bottom

sets up. If you are feeling somewhat brave you can form it the full 8' high and

pour it but I would get a concrete guy to give his thumbs up on that before I

attempted it.

4 Next you will need to cut some pieces of 1/2" all thread rod. These will go

through both pieces of plywood and both the  2×8 vertical support boards with nuts and washers to hold and support the plywood forms.

For an 8" thick wall plus your 1 1/2 inches of plywood, (2-3/4" thick

pieces)along with a 2X8 board on each side of the plywood form, that is around

13". Then you want to add about 11" to that, so you need to cut your all thread

rod pieces about 24" long.

5 I say 24" long on the all thread rod because the form boards will take up 8"+

3/4"+ 3/4"+ 1 1/2"+ 1 1/2"= 12 1/2".

8"- wall.

3/4"- Outside Plywood.

3/4"- Inside Plywood.

1 1/2"- Outside 2×8 Vertical Support Board Bolted Over Plywood

1 1/2" Inside  2×8 Vertical Support.

2" Sticking outside for nuts and washers.

10" Sticking out on the inside of wall to use for bolting shelves and such.

= 24" Long all thread rod each.

 

Then the outside of the form will need about 2" sticking out of the plywood for the

nuts and washers. Then on the inside form boards you can leave the remainder of

the all thread rod sticking out and use those after you pour it to bolt seats or shelves

on the inside wall of your storm shelter.

 

 

Storm Shelter Walls 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Storm Shelter Walls 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

Wall Form Boards End View


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